October is over. While I will be grading CRS reports for a while – and may well blog about that at some point – I want to celebrate my return to blogging by discussing more fun stuff. Last week, I was in Québec City for the Association of Preservation Technology conference (to talk about the CRS survey, actually). The city impressed me a great deal. I thought I’d talk about some of that. Québec City has really mastered integration of historic resources into modern living. It made for a wonderful visit, even with rain, cold, wind, and 3 hours of driving from Montréal.
Archaeology
QC has a rich and long history. Unlike some cities, where this is a challenge to find, in QC it’s all right on the surface for people to see. There are ruins left open throughout the old city, and interpretive panels EVERYWHERE. I saw people pausing to read these panels every day I was there, and that despite the rain and cold. One particular feature that impressed me: the observation squares on the boardwalk, or, as they call them “archaeoscopes“. These ultra-modern glass squares are a fantastic contrast with the castle and really feel like peering into the past and future simultaneously.
Infrastructure
The old city has stuck to its cobblestones. This effectively slows down traffic and lets the pedestrians feel safe. But here again the old and new have been used in tandem. Very good pedestrian crossing lights are present throughout, and the wayfinding is top-notch. Street signs clearly indicate not only where you are but the historic character of the area.
Because the old city is on and just below a very steep hill, there are lots of stairs to get up top. These are done smartly instead of impressively. Masonry stairs freeze and become very slippery. QC stairs smartly use timber or metal grates to avoid that problem. Yes, they are called Escalier casse-cou “breakneck steps” but are much safer if less magisterial than the alternative.
Murals/Public Art
QC is not just rich with history. It showcases it everywhere. This includes large murals that depict local luminaries (with a key for the uninitiated). Those murals are the height of traditional civic design.
Yet there are also more polarizing art installations around the old city. While I was there, there a few installations called “passages insolites”. I liked them, particularly the one called “stock en transit”. Your mileage may vary.
More masonry than you can shake a stick at
As a frenchie, I’ve come to associate American architecture with lots of wood usage. Québec certainly has lots of wood available, but the architecture really stuck to the French tradition: stone, and lots of it. To me, it felt a little like home. Until I got completely disoriented by their accent and idioms, that is. “Bienvenue” is not something French people say as “you’re welcome”. Anyway, seeing a walled city in America felt wonderfully homey to me. Of course, it’s the only one left. So if you’re a frenchie and wanna get a weird, different, warped, but still unmistakable taste of home, you might wanna make the trip up north.
Also: poutine
I had it every day. I’m not sorry.